Ben already makes it big

Young wine maker Ben Glaetzer has chalked up major achievements

Described by a UK wine writer as "the hottest property in Antipodean winemaking", Ben Glaetzer has a family heritage in winemaking to back his growing list of achievements. Not yet 30, Ben has been awarded the Qantas/Gourmet Traveller Wine Medal in 2004; his 2004 Heartland Shiraz was the Advertiser/Hyatt Wine of the Year in 2005; his Godolphin shiraz-cabernet won The Great Australian Red competition in July; and American wine god Robert Parker has rated nine of his wines above 95 points.

The first Glaetzers came to the Barossa in 1888. Ben's father Colin started his winemaking career at Tyrrell's in the Hunter, where he made Australia's first commercial chardonnay in 1971. He returned to the Barossa and was at Barossa Valley Estate from 1985 to 1994, creating the classic E & E Black Pepper Shiraz. Colin's twin brother, John, was red wine blender at Wolf Blass for many years. Several other Glaetzers are in the wine industry.

Ben's ambition as a child was to be a paediatric surgeon. His time as a youthful cellar hand at Barossa Valley Estate changed that. Today, he is winemaker for three labels - Glaetzer Wines with his father; Mitolo Wines for Frank Mitolo at McLaren Vale; and Heartland Wines for a group of friends. I recently tasted most of the Glaetzer and Heartland wines at Dan Murphy's. All are focused on fruit rather than oak, and most bottles bear striking livery. The Glaetzer wines (at present, five super-premium reds) are from the same ancient, dry-grown vineyards in the Ebenezer district of the Barossa, but different soil types. I tasted 2004 Wallace (about $19), a shiraz (70 per cent)-grenache (30 per cent) blend, all plums and blackberries; 2004 Bishop Shiraz (about $29), brooding and chocolatey; 2005 Godolphin (about $50), a long-living blend of shiraz (80 per cent) and cabernet sauvignon (20 per cent), with a touch of mintiness and bursting with rich fruit; and 2005 Amon-Ra (about $90), an unfiltered shiraz from vines between 80 and 115 years old; a mewling brat with a long, sumptuous life ahead of it. The Godolphin and Amon-Ra were barrel samples drawn that morning...not available until September and then in short supply.

Heartland Wines offer excellent value. At the bottom of the range are 2006 Stickleback White (about $10), mainly chardonnay, aromatic and juicy, and 2005 Stickleback Red (about $12), a quaffable cabernet-shiraz-grenache blend. The "Coast and Creek" range is 2005 shiraz and 2004 cabernet sauvignon (each about $17), from Langhorne Creek and the Limestone Coast, each exemplifying Ben's belief in balance.

The 2004 Directors' Cut Shiraz (about $29), Langhorne Creek and Limestone Coast shiraz...I found multi-layered and complex, with years ahead of it. Ben believes in unusual blends, hence his 2004 Dolcetto Lagrein, a favourite of mine for its yummy chewy cherry-ripe furit, and 2005 Viognier Pinot Gris (each about $20), citrussy - each a challenge at masked tastings. "I'm trying to make wines that will make people think," explains Ben.