Tanzer rates the Glaetzer 04s

2004 Glaetzer Wallace Shiraz Grenache, Barossa Valley 89 points (made from 70% shiraz from 65-year-old-vines and 30% grenache from 90-year-old bush vines) Bright-rimmed violet. Smoky, sexy aromas of ripe blackberry, blueberry and candied cherry, with complicating licorice and dried rose tones. Quite sweet, showing a ripe creme de cassis flavor along with notes of raspberry and mocha. Plush, supple and sweet, the blackcurrant flavor lingering nicely on the finish.

2004 Glaetzer Bishop Shiraz. Barossa Valley 91(+) points (from 40-to-80-year-old vines, young by the standards of this producer) Saturated violet. Inky, primal blackberry, cassis and cherry pit on the nose. Powerful and dense, with a structured impression of dark cherry, candied plum and sweet tobacco. This has a serious foundation of concentrated dark fruits and tannins, but there's also impressive sweetness. Finishes weighty, sweet and long, with a note of bitter chocolate. One for the cellar.

2004 Glaetzer Shiraz, Barossa Valley 93 points (from vines reportedly between 85 and 115 years of age) Inky ruby. Spicy blackberry, cherry and dark chocolate on the nose, with complicating notes of espresso and dried violet. Cool and restrained, with a suave, silky tone to the dark fruit flavors and gentle acids bringing freshness and energy. Nothing overdone here. There's impressive clarity and length to the blackberry and blackcurrant flavors. Really gorgeous.

2004 Amon-Ra Shiraz, Barossa Valley 95 points (from vines between 100 and 120 years of age) Saturated violet. Amazingly complex bouquet of creme de cassis, candied blackberry, fresh flowers, cocoa powder and minerals. Pulls off the feat of being dense and sweet but also bright and lively, with potent dark berry, kirsch and licorice candy flavors that deepen with air. The tannins, if you can find them under the mountain of flavor, are fine-grained and wonderfully supple. This wine's purity of fruit, along with its precision and richness, made it one of the most dramatic wines of my tastings.