Jancis Robinson reviews the Glaetzer 04s

"....I thought you might be interested in these notes on four top 2004 Shirazes just released by Glaetzer wines in the Barossa Valley.  The 2004 vintage was very promising for Barossa Shiraz - see my Guide to recent Australian vintages.

I have already described the Glaetzer family in Barossa Valley - growers turn winemakers and Barossa tasting notes published last July. Colin G is an established piece of Barossa Valley furniture. His son Ben is already garlanded as a winemaker being responsible for such labels as Mitolo, Heartland and of course Glaetzer. Amon-Ra and Godolphin are Ben's particular babies. The signature wine of the family's output is, rather confusingly, just called Glaetzer Shiraz, while Glaetzer Bishop is an earlier maturing version thereof.

All the wines are made from dry-farmed old vines and have wonderfully bright fruit and a deep, bright crimson colour.

Glaetzer, Bishop Shiraz 2004 Barossa Valley 17 Drink 2006-10
The earlier-maturing vats of unirrigated fruit from 40 to 80 year-old vines, largely from Ebenezer in the north west of the Barossa Valley. Hint of damson-like acidity on the nose and then wonderfully broad notes of pepper and chocolate on the palate. Very clean and fresh. Just a slight hole in the middle. Pretty good buy - and much more lifted, concentrated and vital than the average Barossa Shiraz. The wine is called after Ben’s mother’s maiden name.

Godolphin by Ben Glaetzer Unfiltered Shiraz/Cabernet 2004 Barossa Valley 16.5 Drink 2007-12
Ben has a thing about Egypt and this new bottling has a version of the Ancient Egyptian ankh symbol of regeneration. It's a blend of 84 per cent 110 to 115 year-old Shiraz vines with 60 to 90 year-old Cabernet vines, all from northern Ebenezer apparently. Very rich, broad, flattering nose with the rigour of Cabernet and then extremely sweet start to the palate and rather pronounced acidity and focus.A little spiky as opposed to mellow. Quite a different style from the all-Shiraz wines. Perceptible heat on the finish. This one should run and run and I'm sure will develop a strong following.

Glaetzer Shiraz 2004 Barossa Valley 18.5 Drink 2005-20
Made from mainly Ebenezer fruit from 80 to 115 year-old vines. Aged in a mixture of new French barrique and American hogsheads. Very deep crimson. Very complete nose that seems to express Barossa Shiraz in a particularly fine form. Very sophisticated wine - great breadth and extremely fine tannins and lovely structure. Tense fruit that is fully ripe but very dry - though not at all drying - on the finish. Miraculously 'cool' on the finish. Quite beautifully made.

Amon-Ra by Ben Glaetzer Unfiltered Shiraz 2004 Barossa Valley 17.5
Drink 2008-15
Called after the Egyptian king of all gods and made from vines more than 100 years old and hand-reared with malolactic in oak and all the trimmings. Very sweet and almost syrupy with pronounced acidity. Ultra-modern as opposed to the classicism of the wine immediately above. Tannins quite obtrusive at the moment. Glamorous but jagged. A wine to admire rather than glug perhaps. Drying, sandpaper finish with quite a bit of heat."