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'Parker Points' for Glaetzer 04sRobert M. Parker Jnr, The Wine Advocate # 166 Nov 20052004 Amon-ra, Barossa Valley
93 Points
This dense ruby/purple-colored wine exhibits a sweet nose of vanilla,
graphite, blackberry, and cassis. Full-bodied and pure, with decent
acidity and a moderately tannic, silky finish, it is accessible enough
to be drunk now, but will be even better in 1-3 years. It should last
for a dozen years or more. 2004 Godolphin Shiraz / Cabernet Sauvignon, Barossa Valley
96-98 points
This nearly perfect wine, made from 84% Shiraz (105- to 115-year-old
vines) and 16% Cabernet Sauvignon (60- to 90-year-old vines), was
cropped at a minuscule .5 to 1 ton of fruit per acre, and spent 15
months in French oak prior to bottling. Its gorgeously sweet, pure nose
of crushed rocks, blueberries, cassis, and minerals soars from the
glass. Floral-like black and blue fruits, an inky/purple color, and
nearly endless depth and persistence on the palate are the stuff of
legends. With extraordinary equilibrium, precision, and purity, it
represents the apogee of Ben Glaetzer's winemaking talents. 2004 Glaetzer Shiraz, Barossa Valley
94-96 points
The finest of this trio is the flagship cuvee, the 2004 Shiraz produced
from 80- to 150-year-old dry farmed vineyards in the northern Ebenezer
sector of the Barossa. Aged 16 months in French oak and American
hogsheads, this larger-than-life, fascinating wine (cropped at .25 to 1
ton of fruit per acre) offers big, sweet, blackberry and cassis
characteristics intermixed with notions of smoke, licorice, and pain
grille. A wine of amazing extract, richness, and full-bodied power,
with great purity as well as balance, this stunning offering should age
effortlessly for 15 or more years. Filled with personality, it is a
tour de force in Barossa Shiraz. One of the stars in the
Epicurean portfolio, the young Ben Glaetzer is establishing a
reputation for high quality in South Australia, not only for the wines
from his home winery, but also for his brilliant efforts under the Amon
Ra and Mitolo labels. These are small volume, artisinal efforts that
capture the pure essence of old vine Barossa Shiraz and Grenache. This
2004 was tasted just prior to bottling. Drink 2005-2020 2004 Glaetzer Bishop Shiraz, Barossa Valley
91-94 points
The 2004 Bishop (100% Shiraz aged 14 months in both hogsheads and small
barrels) is fashioned from some of Ben Glaetzer’s “younger” vines (only
40-80 years old). A spicy, peppery, earthy, cherry, blackberry, and
licorice-scented bouquet is turbo-charged, soaring from the glass. This
full-bodied, savoury, heady, rich wine boasts impressive balance,
concentration, and overall mouthfeel. This 2004 was tasted
just prior to bottling. 2004 Glaetzer Wallace Shiraz Grenache, Barossa Valley
89-91 points
The 2004 Wallace (70% Shiraz from 65-year-old vines and 30% Grenache
from 90-year-old vines, aged in large French and American oak
hogsheads) is a prototypical South Australian offering. Meaty, rich,
and full-bodied, with copious amounts of cassis and blackberry fruit as
well as spice and pepper, it is a fruit-driven Shiraz to enjoy over the
next 4-5 years. This 2004 was tasted just prior to
bottling. Drink 2005-2010 Parker Point System:
96-100
An extraordinary wine of profound and complex character displaying all
the attributes expected of a classic wine of its variety. Wines
of this calibre are worth a special effort to find, purchase, and
consume.
90-95 An outstanding wine of exceptional complexity and character. In short, these are terrific wines.
80-89 A barely above average to very good wine
displaying various degrees of finesse and flavour as well as character. |
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